We get a fair few enquiries about Cuillin Ridge Traverses and unfortunately, we have to knock back many of them. Having the right people with the right experience on the right route is fundamental to an enjoyable and safe trip. This article looks at the experience required for a guided traverse (rather than doing it independently).
There are several components that make up the required experience for a successful Ridge Traverse
Scrambling
Calling the ridge a 12km scramble isn’t entirely accurate as there are some easier sections but even these are rough by mainland hill walking standard. However, there is a huge amount of scrambling on the ridge. You’ll need to be able to move confidently and proficiently on this ground. Moving efficiently and well will lead to us covering the ground at the required speed to get through the ridge.
There are no shortcuts to learning how to move well on technical ground. Lots of mileage moving on scrambling terrain in the mountains is essential.
It’s hard to put a number on this but being able to name a dozen or more graded scrambles (grade 2+) that you’ve previously and fairly recently completed, would be a reasonable aim.
When practicing on scrambles, aim for smooth and precise movement, not just getting up the route as fast as possible. The speed will come the more smoothly you move on the rock which may actually require you to slow down initially. The old US Navy SEALs phrase “Slow is smooth, smooth is fast” applies well to this. Don’t forget, you’ll be scrambling down as well as up and this needs to be equally as smooth. Routes like the Aonach Eagach are good practice with lots of ups and downs. Liathach and An Teallach also have some good scrambling (if you don’t take the easier bypasses!). Just remember though, none of these routes come close to the sustained technical nature of the Cuillin and have much more hill walking than scrambling
Routes like Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor and particularly Tower Ridge (+ descent of Ledge Route) on Ben Nevis are a great test for tackling the ridge in terms of scrambling. We have taken clients on this sort of route as a prep day. This often lets us assess where everyone stands in terms of their fitness. It also helps evaluate their scrambling ability. I understand a prep day in advance isn’t always a feasible option for everybody though.
Mountain Fitness
On day 1 of a 2 day Traverse we may do as many as 7,8 or even 9 Munros. That’s a big day by hill walking standards but doing this whilst carrying bivvy kit and scrambling/rock climbing/abseiling adds even more exertion to the day. The Cuillin is not the place to tackle a big day like this for the first time- go out and do some of the classic big Munro days- the South Glenshiel Ridge, the Mamores 10 etc. This will get you used to pushing on as well as building that all important aerobic fitness.
Rock Climbing
Believe or not, you don’t have to be an elite rock climber to tackle the ridge. I’ve completed many traverses with people who have modest rock climbing ability ( and had some traverses that haven’t been successful with E Grade climbers.) The 4 rocks climbs (TD Gap, Kings Chimney, In Pinn and Naismith’s Route) are not all compulsory (though the In Pinn really should be included in a traverse. !). One of the joys of mountaineering is that there are no rules like in conventional sports. You can choose and adjust your level of challenge (to a point) to a level you’re happy with.
Some experience climbing around the Moderate-V.Diff range is very useful though. Doing some Moderate or Diff. Climbs in approach shoes/boots is excellent prep for the Cuillin. Some previous abseiling experience is also extremely useful as a couple of the abseils on the ridge can be quite awkward and are not very beginner friendly. Climbing at the climbing wall can be of limited benefit but is quite different to climbing with a rucksack and boots/approach shoes on real rock.
Mental Fitness
People often find the mental fatigue as hard as the physical fatigue to deal with. Having to concentrate for hours and hours on exposed , sometimes technical terrain will test your concentration to the limit. After the bivvy on a two day Traverse, we’ve often had a broken night’s sleep so day 2 can feel even harder from this point of view. Being able to dig into your reserves is important as is knowing that the route will at somepoint feel gruelling, even for the fittest individuals. Arriving for your traverse in a positive mental place and a ‘can do’ attitude is really important!
We’ll do our utmost to support you to achieve your goal of a Cuillin Ridge Traverse- it really is a wonderful experience and all of the preparation and hard work will be greatly rewarded with a truly memorable and world class mountain experience.
We’re always more than happy to discuss individual experience levels
